2001 AWW Going into Limp mode after a good hard accelleration need help

1789 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Gofastplz, Dec 9, 2020

BangshiftBetty

Discussion Starter · Mar 28, 2016

2001 GLS AWW motor car keeps going going into limp mode after a good hard run 1st, 2nd, 3rd all to redline with the gas pedal smashed if i dont run it hard it does not go into limp mode. I say limp mode because after a hard run boost is limited to 5 pounds until it is shut off then turned back on. Cant seem to find the problem all vac leaks have been resolved and tested and retested The N75 has been swapped out a couple times (not to mention tried in a few different configurations) set of new coil packs installed along with the plugs 4 brand new injectors, I have no Lights or codes being set or stored im just running out of things to do to fix this and really can it be this hard to get a car out of limp mode? when I replaced the turbo I went with new parts for almost everything I took out from the TIP to Diverter Valve You name it I put in brand new parts not that it means anything but it does give a certain level of confidence in something.
the car is set up to have a 3" downpipe in the tune but its not bolted on yet because the car has to pass safety and emissions test first, The Pipe I have is a CAT delete which is frowned upon by the local powers that be Also when I took out the bad turbo I never did find the Exhaust Fan to it Im thinking it got extremely hot and went into the exhaust.
So will a backed up exhaust cause limp mode? if so would not having the right downpipe be enough to cause it? or does it have to be all but sealed off,
Lastly whats the best way to test for boost leaks I havent read much about that on any posts, not easy to be under the hood while boost is on cant seem to find anyone that will get under the hood while im driving so if ya know somebody or just a good way to test for leaks without driving would be helpful
N249 is the old one could that cause my problem
wastegate is shutting ok when i tested it
Need some ideas where else to look maybe
wish i had Vagcom but no have the software

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KiDGiB

· #2 · Mar 28, 2016

Boost leak test kits are online to buy or you can try to make your own. You block off the charge pipe going to the intake manifold and you block off certain ports on the turbo inlet pipe and add pressure through an compressed air hose and fill it to a certain psi and see if it holds.

You say your dropping to 5psi, do you have a boost gauge to confirm that? and whats your peak boost when it hits limp mode? and what tune are you running, since you stated the car is setup to have a 3" downpipe in the tune.

Bypass the n249 by running a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the DV and plug the vacuum line going to the DV from that little vacuum reservoir on the valve cover.. I would also test your DV by pressing the diaphram in and plugging the vacuum port. If the DV doesn't hold, then it has a tear and needs to be replaced.

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BangshiftBetty

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 1, 2016

damn lost my last reply to a phone call
sorry been so long I been so busy at work it sucks. anyway yes I have a boost Gauge can't imagine running a car like this without one just wouldn't make sense. the tune on the car is a custom tune
set up for my car, by a solid company I have no worries there I don't think probably the last thing I'll check, the way the car is acting just feels like a mechanical problem to me maybe I'm just a dumb girl but this car is not gonna beat me.
first I wanted to say thank you for your reply it gave me a bunch of ideas and directions to go i really appreciate it I been so busy at work I haven't had time to play with this thing till tonight and I'll tell what happened so far and where Im at
for starters I pulled the dv and replaced it with the original one and it stopped going into limp mode for awhile maybe an hour or so and I thought I had it but then it started goin back into limp mode again so I figured when I was swapping out the diverter valve I must have disturbed something so I started at the bake booster and replaced those plastic lines because those plastic lines are notorious at cracking and there where it connects to the check valve it was all cracked so I went and bought a bunch of vac line and plan on replacing it all. anyway after fixing where it was cracked no dice it still doin the same thing so that's where I'm at. I think I'm gonna just connect the brake booster and the diverter valve (and the boost Gauge of course) and plug the rest at the manifold and see what happens before I start in on pressure testing after finding that Crack I have a feeling there is something else like that somewhere, it surprised me kinda to find that Crack kinda because I had sprayed the whole thing down and never got a hit just goes to show if ya dont actually take the parts off and inspect them you really can't be sure, I also cut open the exhaust right after the first o2 sensor which had no effect except to say it made it loud but didn't affect the problem so I guess I'll just continue to divide and conquer with the info you gave me. I'm wondering where you would start first and if it's very common to get a leak at the injectors, one other thing the car feels like it's missing sometimes at high rpm and im not sure why maybe it's a symptom of something

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Gofastplz

· #4 · Dec 9, 2020

BangshiftBetty said:
damn lost my last reply to a phone call
sorry been so long I been so busy at work it sucks. anyway yes I have a boost Gauge can't imagine running a car like this without one just wouldn't make sense. the tune on the car is a custom tune
set up for my car, by a solid company I have no worries there I don't think probably the last thing I'll check, the way the car is acting just feels like a mechanical problem to me maybe I'm just a dumb girl but this car is not gonna beat me.
first I wanted to say thank you for your reply it gave me a bunch of ideas and directions to go i really appreciate it I been so busy at work I haven't had time to play with this thing till tonight and I'll tell what happened so far and where Im at
for starters I pulled the dv and replaced it with the original one and it stopped going into limp mode for awhile maybe an hour or so and I thought I had it but then it started goin back into limp mode again so I figured when I was swapping out the diverter valve I must have disturbed something so I started at the bake booster and replaced those plastic lines because those plastic lines are notorious at cracking and there where it connects to the check valve it was all cracked so I went and bought a bunch of vac line and plan on replacing it all. anyway after fixing where it was cracked no dice it still doin the same thing so that's where I'm at. I think I'm gonna just connect the brake booster and the diverter valve (and the boost Gauge of course) and plug the rest at the manifold and see what happens before I start in on pressure testing after finding that Crack I have a feeling there is something else like that somewhere, it surprised me kinda to find that Crack kinda because I had sprayed the whole thing down and never got a hit just goes to show if ya dont actually take the parts off and inspect them you really can't be sure, I also cut open the exhaust right after the first o2 sensor which had no effect except to say it made it loud but didn't affect the problem so I guess I'll just continue to divide and conquer with the info you gave me. I'm wondering where you would start first and if it's very common to get a leak at the injectors, one other thing the car feels like it's missing sometimes at high rpm and im not sure why maybe it's a symptom of something

Hey Bettybwhat did you eventually discover about your problem ? I have an '01 AWW as well and I'm encountering similar symptoms although I have not changed any turbo or have a boost guage in there yet. It has 225,000 mi on it and has a stage one tune looking for 17 lbs was prob too much and a 3-in downpipe but it has a stock exhaust after down pipe no cat. The exhaust smells very toxic like running lean. And has code for p0420. I intend to repair coil harnesses and fuel injectors and add boost guage and eventually the remainder of the exhaust changed. I'm curious to what you discovered. Thanks Mike

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