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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

First, I don't have any advanced tools. The most advanced hand tools I have are some ratcheting & crescent wrenches. The whole thing took me about 16 hours, but I had no clue what most of the parts I was replacing were. A lot of time was spent researching, posting questions, and just staring at the car trying to figure out what fits where. A bentley will help you tremendously, but does not cover everything. I'm going to mirror the bentley's instructions and add comments.
Parts you'll need
GAP's clutch kit (includes clutch disc, pressure plate, thrust plate, and thrust plate retaining ring)

GAP's clutch installation kit (includes Includes flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, rear crank seal, input shaft seal, push rod bushing and seal, release bearing and release bearing cover)

Speedo gasket

I also did my selector shaft seal *does not come in GAP kit

and release shaft seal. *does not come in GAP kit

If you've never done your linkage, you may want to do that now as well since we'll need to take some of it apart.

You may also want to do your clutch cable if yours stinks

Remove the transmission
In order to get at the clutch, you need to disconnect your transmission from the engine.
1. Disconnect the battery, ground strap (on the transmission mount arm), reverse light switch, starter, speedo cable, and clutch cable. The speedo cable can be difficult, but the best thing to note is to not pull on the cable very hard. The gear attached at the bottom of the cable will come off if you pull too hard. Remove the 8mm bolt on top of the speedo and pull that cover up the line. You can then see under it a rubber gasket. If yours is like mine, it fell apart. There is then a metal "cup" like piece that is inside the transmission. Take a screwdriver and work it up, this is where you DON'T just yank on the cable.
2. Loosen the driver's side wheel, jack up the car, and remove the wheel. Disconnect the transmission from the linkage. Remove both levers and the connecting rod.
3. Bentley now says to add an engine support. This would probably be optimal, as would give you the best working room underneath, but I just used a jackstand to hold it up a little bit. I put a block of wood in between the oil pan and my jackstand.
4. Remove the upper bolts that hold the transaxle to the engine. There's 2 of these at 19mm.
5. Bentley now says to remove the 3 bolts from the passenger side rear mount. I wouldn't do this. They're 13mm and I actually cracked the first two I tried. (They're still cracked and I hope the rust and 3rd hold it all together) I didn't need to do this step at all, it'll save you some hassle.
6. Bentley now says to remove the top bolt in the driver's side rear mount. The transmission has two brackets that attach to this mount. One is part of the linkage and mounts the differential part of the transmission to the mount. The other is the transmission support arm. So remove that top mounting bolt. After doing so you can also jack up the transmission and remove the support that's part of the linkage. Try and loosen the two bolts (and nuts) that connect the transmission to the transmission support arm. The body of the car will get in the way of this, so you'll have to jack up/down the transmission to get the arm out. You can do this a little later too, but get them the best you can now.
7. You'll now need to disconnect the inner cv joints from the transmission. You will need an 8mm triple-square bit for this. I didn't hang mine up with wire but instead rested them on jackstands. Just make sure you don't make the angle on the outer cv joint too severe as then the ball bearings will fall out and you'll have to take it apart.
8. Left wheelhouse liner -- this is self explanatory. Just remember to put this back on before you put the wheel back on
Ask me how I know ...
9. Bentley now says to remove the bolts from the clutch cover plate. There are three of these on the bottom (2x11mm, 1x17mm) and two (2x11mm) just above where the passenger side inner cv joint attaches. The best way that I found for the one on top was using a crescent wrench from inside the engine bay. The best way to get the bottom one was with a couple 3/8 drive extensions with an 11mm socket on the end. Note: I wasn't able to get the bottom one back in. Hope it doesn't fall apart
(It didn't in a year)
10. At this point we want to jack the transmission up a little to take the pressure off of the front motor mount. Now remove the starter. There's one bolt in the top and two in the bottom. (3x17mm *I think*). Keep track of which ones are which because they're different lengths.
11. If you have a 16v remove the engine damper. I have an 8v, so I don't have a clue what this is.
Also on California 8V cars
It is a wee little shock unit like the ones for the hatch on a Golf, and it bolts to the passenger strut tower on a bracket there, and then the other end mounts to the engine block in a hole tapped for it there.

12. With the starter out, you can remove the front engine mount as well. Take the one nut (9/16ths for me, but it was very rusty) on top out first. If you don't do it first, it's tough to get enough torque with the bottom bolts loosened/out. You can use a socket with a couple long extensions to get enough clearance to get leverage. There's also one 17mm bolt in the bottom that you need a crescent wrench to get to and there's also a 13mm on the bottom that you can get a socket on. Now remove the whole mount.
*** Be gentle with the transmission main shaft. Don't let the weight of the transmission be supported by the main shaft that connects to the clutch. If this happens you could damage your transmission internals. This applies for the installation phase as well. ***
Note: I let a little pressure on mine when I had to(reposition hand/body/etc), but tried to keep it to a minimum and my transmission was okay. Your mileage will vary.
13. Now drop the transmission back down slowly so as not to stress any of your supports or the passenger side rear engine mount. When I did this, I left my jackstand under the oil pan with block of wood, but left it go as low as the jackstand would allow. This makes the fall of the transmission less painful when it hits your chest. If there are any bolts still connecting the transmission to the engine, take them out now. Make sure everything is disconnected from the transmission: linkage, brackets, bolts, and wiring.

2,465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
14. This next part is interesting and would be easier with a buddy, but I was able to do it myself. Position yourself with your legs out the driver's side wheel well. I suggest wearing a long sleeve or sweatshirt as some protection to your arms/skin. Try to wrap your arms hands around it as good as you can and pull it away from the engine enough to be able to turn the transmission. Turn it so the differential goes upward about 70 degrees (the more you go toward 90 I think the easier it gets, but I was only able to get to about 70).
Quote, originally posted by Broke »I use a scissors jack or a block of wood between the firewall and the back of the engine on the block, pushing the engine forward (it wants to roll back without the mounts in place) will clear up some room, as it moves the engine/trans combo forward away from the subframe a bit where the steering rack is. This gives you a little more twisting room with it, to get the passenger flange to clear the flywheel.
Now hold your breath and try and pull it away from the engine. Make sure your face isn't below it before you pull or that could hurt. I had to rest at some points during this so I'd put a jackstand under it to take the major load off the main shaft.
15. Once the transmission is on your chest/arm, I had to get myself out from under it since myself and the transmission weren't small enough to slide out from under the car. I rolled it off my chest, but the differential smashed my wrist, so just watch out for that when it starts going. It's an awkward thing to move.
16. It's out! Rest and don't think about the fact that you have to put it back in

17. At this point we jump out from the transmission removal/installation section and start the clutch. First take off the flywheel bolts. Loosen them evenly a so as not to damage the flywheel. The flywheel bolts are 12 pts 9mm. This is not a triple-square 12pt type but the regular 12pt socket (not sure of a more specific name for this tool). Pull the flywheel off. Notice that inside the flywheel is completely dry and it's full of dust from what was once on your clutch disc. Make sure that your flywheel is flat and without any cracks. Make sure to keep it dry as any lubrication in here will make your clutch not work or wear out really fast. I also used some compressed air to clean it out. I would hold your breath during this phase as I can't imagine breathing in a clutch disc would be a good thing.
18. Take a small flathead screwdriver and take the spring out so you can remove the thrust plate. This spring will spring, so make sure not to catch it with your face.
19. Use this trick (thanks Broke) to lock the engine from turning as you loosen the 6 hex bolts in the middle.

20. At this point you can remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. The bentley describes how to check the pressure plate and disc for wear to see if they're good enough to replace. I paid < $100 for the entire kit. If you're going to spend the time taking your transmission out, replace this stuff.
(I may learn the hard way with my rear main seal, but that's cause I didn't know any better, or at least that's what I'm forcing myself to believe
21. If there's any seals you want to replace on the transmission, now would be a good time to do so. When I did mine, I replaced the selector shaft seal, release arm seal, throwout bearing, and pushrod seal. The selector shaft seal needed it badly. One note on the selector shaft seal, I didn't actually take the whole shaft out because I didn't have a 27mm tool to do so. I simply pry'd out the old seal, lubed up the new one, and slid it over top of the shaft while it was still in place. I haven't had any leaks yet, but I haven't driven it much since I did it either (100 miles at the most).
22. You can now install the pressure plate onto the shaft. You can now tighten down the bolts to 22 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn. These bolts should not be reused, so use the ones that came in the GAP installation kit and already have thread locking compound on them. Use the same trick as earlier to hold the engine still to get enough torque.
23. Lightly grease up the "contact" side of the thrust plate. This is the location on the plate where it comes in contact with the pressure plate springs. Also lightly grease up the center of the thrust plate where the pushrod comes in contact. Use a lithium grease for this. I happened to have some laying around. Now install the thrust plate and put in your new spring.
24. Now you have to put on the flywheel and clutch disc. One confusing thing for me was the label on the disc that said "flywheel side". I found that to be the wrong side. The side that should face the flywheel is the only way the clutch disc will sit flush against the pressure plate, otherwise the splines the clutch disc will stick out and hit the thrust plate. This is accurately described in the Bentley. Place the clutch disc inside the flywheel and find the two "tubes" called the guide pins. These two pins need to line up with pressure plate. Mount the flywheel, use your extra hand to turn in some of the flywheel bolts. Put all of the bolts in but leave them a little less than hand tight. We need to center the clutch disc inside the flywheel. This is where you want to use the black circular tool in GAP's clutch instllation kit to center the clutch disc. Once centered you'll need to tighten down the flywheel bolts in a circular cross pattern so as not to put much too much pressure on the flywheel. Torque these bolts to 15 ft/lbs. I was obsessive about making sure the bolts were tightened evenly. I think I did 1/4 turn at a time until they were torqued properly. You probably don't have to be that strict, but I didn't want to do this operation again
25. Mount the transmission and hook everything up
It takes two people but really no lifting on eithers part. First I wrap a ratchet strap around the gearbox, between the shifter/selector lever and the diff.

Then I laid a 2x4 from the cowl to the rad support. Wrap the strap around the 2x4 and have one person start ratcheting while the other guides from below. It took a couple of lifts to get it in place because the ratchet strap filled with strap. While I unwound the strap I just put a couple jack stands under the transmisson.
It worked fantastically and saved a bunch of hassle. You still need to rotate it around to get the diff to clear the inner fender but it's easier to rotate while the whole thing is still being supported so you don't have to lift and rotate.

125 Posts
wow im in a powertrain class at college, and we just replace a 93 honda clutch it looks soooo much different i just cant rap my head around how vw does it with the pressure plate and clutch backwards
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