Volkswagen Jetta Junkies banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

2,465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Things you will need
1. Phillips screw driver (looks like this on the tip + )
2. A jack, or a stick or 1x1 board, anything that will be able to prop the clutch arm in place to give you slack on the cable (you'll see what I mean)
3. A flashlight ###<--(or two)
4. A friend to step on the clutch pedal a few times while you see where the clutch cable is in the engine compartment (if you don't know what the cable looks like) ###or a brick
if you have no friends
Estimated time to complete: 1-2hrs.
Note: This DIY looks extremely long and may look intimidating, but it's long because I tried to make sure I didn't leave anything out. I may have repeated myself once or twice, or said something obvious or redundant. Disregard it, and get this done! You will be proud of yourself, it really is worth the trouble.
By the way, do yourself a favor and print this out in large text so you can refer to it while your doing the project.
1. First of all, slide the drivers seat all the way back, and take out floormats. Flip the hood up and prop it.
2. Get a friend to step on the clutch pedal a few times so you can see exactly where the clutch cable is, and the arm it connects to.

3. This is where the jack, or board comes in. Once you find the clutch arm the clutch cable connects to, you will want to get underneath the front of the car and prop the jack/board/stick so the clutch arm stays lifted up. When you are propping (especially with a jack) take care not to put pressure on the transmission, just the clutch arm.

4. Once the clutch arm is propped up, you can see connected to the arm, a rectangular piece of black rubber, and a similiar shaped piece of metal with a slit in it. The slit is where the clutch cable end slides on to. SInce you have enough slack from the arm being propped up, you can easily slide the metal piece out and pull the rubber piece out. You will need these again, don't lose them.

##You wont be able to lift it this much when it's on the clutch arm but heres a better view

##THis is how it will slide out to the side

5. Once that is taken off, you will want to get underneath the drivers side dash, just under the steering wheel. There will be 3 separate things you need to take out underneath there before you can access the top of the clutch cable. You will also want to pull down the fuse box as well. It's all much easier than it sounds. The larger piece (don't know what the appropriate name is for it) that your knees hit when your driving will need to be taken out first. There are 5 screws holding this in place, located directly underneath it. Take the screws out and then slide the entire piece directly down towards the floor.

##The 3 middle screws

##Left side screw right about the front hood release

##right side screw right at the corner of the panel and center console

##All done...

6. Now that it's out of the way, you will want to take out a flimsy piece of plastic located just underneath the fuse box. There are only a couple screws holding this in, it comes out very easy.

7. Since that is out of the way, you'll be able to better see the fuse box. On the sides of the fuse box, you will see a grey tab on each side that you flip up. Once you have flipped these up, the fuse box is removed by lifting straight up on it (towards the ceiling) and then you can lay it on the floor or let it dangle.
##right side tab

##left side tab, kinda hidden

##careful with this...

8. That wasn't so hard was it? This next step is the biggest hassle of the project, this is where little hands and a flashlight win the day. Your going to want to shine your flashlight up to the top of the clutch pedal. There you will see a plastic housing on the left side of the pedal, and it goes up and around the pedal. Shine the flashlight on the left side of the plastic housing. You will see 2 slots where the plastic housing connects to a metal housing. The plastic housing comes out, the metal stays. This plastic piece is removed by sliding the piece straight up.(towards the celing) You don't need to pry, prod or jab at it with your screwdriver, it comes right out. Once it is slid out of those two tabs, you'll want to move the plastic housing until you see a ziptie looking thing on the side of it, this roundish looking guide should be holding on to 2 wire clusters. You don't need to cut this, just push on it with your screwdriver to release the 2 wire clusters. After that, you will want to move the plastic housing to the left to remove it. It will most likely catch on the metal housings lip. It'll take a few minutes to negotiate it out of there, just don't break it, it will come out.
##no real pics of this, as I was indesposed... heres the pic of the piece you will be taking out... and where the tabs are..

w##iring harness spoken of

THERE! It finally came out. I'm sure at this point you've created some new curse words, and there should be a group of people standing around you and your car gaping in disbelief. Pain in the arse wasn't it?
9. This is where your friend will come in handy again. Since you've disconnected the clutch cable from the clutch arm, you can get him/her to push the tip of the cable towards you (towards the cable) to slack the cable as much as possible in your favor. Don't let them wander off, it helps a bunch. Get your head underneath the clutch pedal and push it to the floor. Take your LEFT hand and feel where the cable meets the top of the pedal. Slide your hand underneath it, and with that slack pull the cable towards you and up, so that the slack is horizontal, and keep wiggling it up and towards you. It takes a few but you'll eventually get it. Again I say, use your left hand to do all the work, it's the easiest.
####When he says left hand he isn't joking....DO IT####
10. Now you've disconnected the cable from the arm, and you can go back in to the engine compartment and pull the rubber grommet on the clutch cable out of the firewall (the metal that separates the engine bay and the inside of the car). Wiggle it back and forth while pulling to get it out. Once it's out throw that sucka as far as possible.
##mine didn't go very far...

11. Now in goes the new cable. It's all down hill from here, since you know the steps in taking it out, it's exactly the same going in. It's easier to connect the cable to the clutch pedal THEN connect it to the clutch arm, trust me. Go to the engine compartment, and push the littel rubber grommet on the clutch cable back in the firewall, twist and push twist and push till it goes in. Make sure it actually snaps in there, it has a lip so it will actually snap in. Pull it a few times to make sure you got it in there properly.
##AGAIN USE YOUR LEFT ARM... I looked like I was trying to limbo under my brake pedal at one point... wasnt working...###

12. Now go back in to the car underneath the dash and guide the cable back in. It goes in the exactly the same way it came out. You have to get slack again from your friend pushing on the other end of the cable. Pull the slack towards you, and with your left hand, pull the line so it loops down towards the groove in the top of the pedal. There are two slots on the pedal, which confused me at first. You want to put the cable in the upper one.(or the one closer to the engine bay if that helps you.) Picture this: Hold your left straight out with your palm to the sky. Now imagine a cable going through your hand making a fist, with your palm still facing the sky. Now turn your fist clockwise so the cable that was coming from the left to right, is now coming from the left, and being routed downwards. That's the best I can explain what you'll want to do with the cable underneath so it goes in to that groove smoothly.

2,465 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
13. (before you start this step, make sure your new cables rubber grommet connected to the cable is tightly pushed in to the firewall so you have plenty of slack) Now that you've snapped the hammer looking end of the cable in to the clutch pedal, you'll want to go back to the engine compartment, and connect the other end to the clutch arm. Assuming you still have a jack or stick holding the clutch arm upwards (so you have more slack to work with) grab the rectangular metal and rubber piece you took out before. The rubber piece goes in first underneath the arm and snaps in to a hole on the clutch arm. Now guide the clutch cable end through the clutch arm and the rubber piece. Now grab the metal piece, and put it underneath the rubber, and with your other hand pull the slack of the cable downwards, so you can slide the cable end through the groove on the metal piece. Once that is done, wiggle it around so you know it's set properly, it should all line up.
##here's the grommet

##grommet with cable (old cable but at least you know what it should look like)

Note: At this point you can now remove the jack, stick, bar or whatever you used to prop up the clutch arm.
14. Now that you have it installed, push the clutch back and forth a few times to make sure it feels ok. You can adjust later, you just need to make sure the cable is installed fine. Now all you have to do is reassemble the mess you made underneath the steering wheel. It all goes back in the same way it came out. First put the plastic housing back in the way it came out. Once it's about in the right spot, snap it back in to the housing it disconnected from. There is a slot that you saw earlier with the flashlight, and another directly above the pedal, just make sure they push in and lock together, then lock in the side one that connects to the metal housing. Once this is done, push the pedal back and forth and make sure it's not rubbing on the side, or upper part of the housing. If it is rubbing, push around the plastic housing until you get it to stop rubbing, and make sure it's locked in to place on the side, and at the top. Now route the 2 cables you took out earlier, back through the plastic housing so they are not dangling by your feet.

15. Not rubbing? Good! Now you can put the fuse box back. Remember it drops in to 2 metal slots, and then you snap the 2 grey tabs over the metal nubs it sits on. Put back the flimsy plastic piece back over the fuse box, 2 screws go in here. Then mount the large piece that your knees hit when you drive. (wish I knew the proper name for that thing) It slides in and snaps in place on the top, line it up, then put the 4-5 screws back in. 16. Now that it's all back together, push the pedal back and forth to see if it's where you like it. It should need some adjusting but this is the easiest part. If it's too loose, or too tight (disengages too high or too low) go to where the cable connects to the clutch arm, losen the little gold nut you see there, and then spin the round rubber piece directly below it. Play with it until it is where you like it. I adjusted mine to where there's about 2 inches of play when you push on the clutch until it actually starts to engage.
NOTE: Do NOT go too tight on the cable, or the clutch will not be able to disengage all the way, and you'll smoke your clutch out.

24 Posts
Funny.....I wanted to do the same thing to my MKii.....bought the cable and got ready....then a reputable euro shop told me that I would fukk up my tranny if I installed the manual adjust cable and not a P.O.S self adjuster....wierd how you installed the exact same cable I now have in my parts box in your MKiii....LOL....Im gonna do it now

370 Posts
wait, so is this so you could make ur clutch engage toward the middle of the pedal throw instead of at the top of the pedal throw. kind of like the hondas

2 Posts
To be honest, you can completely remove the plastic shroud that goes between the pedal and the fuse box area (the most difficult part of the removal was that) and be just fine. Zip tie the wires up and away from the pedal so there is no rub at all.

After doing this and wanting to destroy the Golf I was working on, the biggest advice I would say is to make sure the jack is raised high enough to ensure you can stick the end of the cable into the clutch arm. I didn't raise it high enough the first time and it was baffling me as to how to do it.

Second most important part is to put the hammer part of the cable into the first slot, the one that is closest to the floor (described as closest to the firewall, however that is difficult to tell which one it is-depending on where you have in your mind as to where the pedal is-up or down). Put it in the first and have a friend pull on the cable once you have slipped it into the slot and then you can put it through the clutch arm in the engine bay.

Very few tools needed-screwdriver phillips, hammer to threaten the car with because you will want to hit something, just don't hit your car, LED flashlight as it is small and bright.

Good luck! If you need any more advice, reply here, I will offer any advice I can.

My pedal is nice and springy after this, not as slack. Also, I didn't have to adjust it at all really as I left it at the setting of no exposed threads on the clutch arm side of the cable. All the way extended.

Super Moderator
13,682 Posts
The image hoster stopped hosting the pictures that's why it no longer works, I wonder if gargamel still has the pics
1 - 10 of 10 Posts