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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This procedure is not for the rookie. A lot of patience is required. The following steps are the ones in which I do in order listed. The first few steps may be outlined differently in other manuals/sites, but these work fine for me. This procedure is standard for all MkIV motors (Vr6, 1.8T, TDI)
Disclaimer: If you get injured or damage happens to your car by following this How To, tough ****, its not my fault, shoulda had me do it instead.

Tools Required
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
16mm Socket
18mm Socket
Socket Wrench
13mm Wrench
Philips Head Scredriver
12mm Triple Square Socket
9mm 12 point socket for Sachs Clutch OR
6mm Triple Square Socket for Luk clutch
T20 Torx bit
Torqure Wrench

Highly Recommended Tools
Breaker Bar
Lots of Extenstions
Impact Gun
Air Ratchet

He We Go!!
1) Park the car with the ebrake engaged and jack up the front end. You can jack up from the subframe (part where the dogbone mount goes into). Make sure you put a piece of wood on the jack so that you don't damage the subframe. Also. the front end has to be high enough so that the tranny can be pulled out from underneath. 1.5' should be good.

2) Place the jackstands on either side. I usually stick them right under the spot where the control arms are bolted up. Remove the wheels.

3) Using the 12mm Triple Square Socket remove the bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential flange (6 per side)

4) Using a 13mm socket remove the bolts holding the ball joint to the control arm. The heads of the bolts face downward (3 per side). Make sure to grab the ball joint locking plate on top of the control arm.

5) Pull the steering knuckles away from the transmission so that the driveshafts clear the differential.

6) Loosen the hose clamp on the intake tube to the airbox. Remove the tube. Remove the wire harness from the airbox. Remove the second, smaller platic hose from the side of the airbox facing the motor. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding down the airbox. The first is on the strut tower, the second inbetween the airbox and battery tray on the left hand side. Remove the airbox.

7) Remove the battery cover. Undo the (+) and (-) terminals on the battery. Remove the platic piece that is directly on top of the battery. Loosen the battery retaining bolt using a 13mm socket. It may be easier if you remove the rear headlight cover. Remove the battery. Remove the plastic cover for the wire loom on the rear side of the battery tray, remove wires. Use a 10mm Socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the battery tray to the car. Remove tray.

Remove nut holding on starter wire using a 13mm socket. Remove the wire. Remove the wire harness on the starter. Go under the car and remove the power steering line bracket from the starter bolt using a 13mm socket. Remove starter bolt using an 18mm socket. Go back up top and remove nut holding on large wiring loom on the top starter bolt. Remove the top starter bolt using an 18mm socket. Remove starter.

9) Remove shift cables from the transmission. There are two types of cables. On the early MkIV's there are nuts holding on the shift cables. on the later models there are clips.

10) Remove the 3 bolts holding on the shift cable bracket using a 13mm socket.

11) Remove the two bolts holding on the bracket that ties the transmission to the side transmission mount. You will need a 13mm wrench to hold the nut on the transmission side of the bracket.

12) Use a 13mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding on the clutch cylinder.

13) Support the motor with the jack and a block of wood. Remove the 2 bolts holding the dogbone mount to the subframe using a 13mm socket. Remove the 2 bolts that attach the dogbone mount to the transmission using a 16mm socket.

14) Remove the 2 bolts holding the side mount to the transmission using an 18mm socket.

15) Remove the screws that hold on the driver's side wheel well liner using a T20 torx bit. Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the circurlar clips that hold the inner liner from the frame rails.

16) Lower the motor so that the 3 bolts that secure the side transmission mount bracket are exposed through the driver's side wheel well. Use a 16mm socket to remove these 3 bolts. Remove the bracket.

17) Remove the 3 bolts that secure the bottom of the transmission bell housing to the oil pan using a 16mm socket.

Remove the bolt that secures the back bottom side of the bell housing to the block using an 18mm socket. It is located right behind the passenger side differential flange and the head faced the passenger side.

19) Remove the bolt on the top backside of the bell housing using an 18mm socket. Remove the nut holdling on the ground wire on the forward transmission bolt. Remove the wire, then use an 18mm Socket to remove the bolt. There shouldn't be any bolt left holding the transmission to the motor.

20) Look on the backside underneath the differential flange where you removed the bolt. If you see a small bolt holding on a metal sheild, remove it using a 10mm socket. If not, it should be a piece of flexible rubber.

21) Remove the transmission. There are a few methods to doing this. Usually, I just crawl underneath the car, with a helper on top. You need to wiggle the transmission off of the input shaft by pulling it towards the driver's side. After it is free, rotate the transmission so that the differential side is facing up. Lower the transmission down, making sure the power steering line is not caught.

22) Remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. If you have a Sachs brand clutch, there will be 6 9mm 12point head bolts. If you have a Luk clutch, there will be 12 6mm Triple Square head bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch.

23) Install everything in reverse order. Make sure that the clutch is lined up properly so that the input shaft will slide right in. Also, make sure to torque properly and use thread lock when necessary.

2 Posts
hello, I was curious on what clutch I should buy for the 2.0 and if there is anything tricky I need to look for while undertaking this project or if its just straight forward as listed. does brand of clutch matter? (i.e. Luk,Valeo,Sachs,...)

Super Moderator
13,682 Posts
From personal experience id go with south bend, I have one now and it's great, huge upgrade from my last one an f1 racing brand clutch

9 Posts
Hey guys , Does this procedure come close for a MVK 2.0T 6m/t trans? Ive search alot for process of my model year but this is the closest diy i have found. Any help is greately appreciated.

1 Posts
just wanted to add that on my friends 01 jetta tdi 5 spd manual transmission the bolts that hold the axle on to the dif are 8mm triple square not 12mm. we went with the luk clutch so we needed,
6mm triple square
8mm triple square
12mm triple square
hopefully this will help someone save a trip to the store.
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