[Rawblitz]

So I just bought a 97 jetta trek and it has a few problems with it.

Stereo: no power to it at all. Replaced fuse and still no power.

Fog lights: checked fuses and bulbs. All good but no light coming from them.

Front blinkers: same as fog lights.

Odometer: digital and doesn't display any numbers. Don't know what fuses control it or even where to begin. Poop.

So I replaced all of the 1-22 fuses and pulled the fuse box down to reveal the relays and one more fuse on top. I have no idea what relay controls what or where to start. The speedometer and tach work perfectly. Any advise would be amazing as this is my first vw and I am so lost.

 

[nubiannupe]

First of all, welcome!!

Now, on to your problems/issues:

It definately seems like you have some sorta electrical issue going on. Now, I'll probably need a bit more info than what you provided, but I'm curious; did you purchase the car with these issues already 'in place', or did these issue surface after your purchase? Now, since you mentioned that you changed all 22 fuses (a bit over the top IMHO, but a good start nonetheless), let's start there. If it were me, I'd break out my DMM (that's a multimeter for those acrostically challenged), turn my ignition key to the "Run" position - with the car turned off - and check the following fuses:

#22 = Radio
#10 = Fog Lights
#17 = Turn Signals
#3, #16, #21 = all are related in some way to the dashboard (dash lights, warning lights, instrument cluster - in that order)

What we're looking for is constant voltage through the fuses themselves - so don't pull any more fuses 'til you determine this. Make sure the key is in the "Run" position while you do this so the circuits are energized. Let me know the results...

Oh, and you might wanna invest in a Chilton's, Haynes, or (if the pocketbook can support it) a Bently manual.

 

[Rawblitz]

Sorry I'm a little inept. I have a dmm but am not quite sure as to how to test the electricity as far as the fuses are concerned. Would I just pull the fuse and put the probes in each slot? Too I think a Bently manual would be most advantageous. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Rawblitz]

Sorry too I did purchase the car with these problems in place but I only spent like 700 Which is worth it with how sting the engine seems

 

[nubiannupe]

First of all, bear with me if I break this down a bit - it'll make for better understanding. And to answer your question, no. Remember, we're testing the FUSES, not the sockets the fuses are plugged into. So, don't pull any fuses when you do the test. As for the 'how' part of the question, it's pretty easy. Just set your DMM to read direct current (the setting should say DC or whatever symbol represents it on your device). Your black probe will be touching a ground source - an exposed piece of metal, a brace on the car, or something along those lines. The metal portion of the door hinge MIGHT work, although I suspect it may not be the best ground point. Next, take your other probe (mine is red). Almost all fuses made - whether they are mini (APM / ATM), or regular (APR / ATC / ATO), have two small 'indents' at the top where the prongs go into the slots you were talking about. These 'indents' are where you'll put your other (red) probe.

Using the first instructions I gave you to energize the circuit(s), and these instructions on how to test said circuit, you should get a reading on your DMM. It should be right around 12 volts (unless your car battery is low - whole other issue). Use the following as a reference:

• 12v at both sides of the fuse = circuit is energized and fuse is ok
• 12v at only one side of the fuse = circuit is energized and fuse is NOT ok
• no reading at either side of the fuse = (a) circuit is not energized, (b) you may not be checking the correct fuse, (c) the problem is NOT with the fuse and may be something further down the 'line'.

Keep in mind, what you're doing here is trying to eliminate the fuses at the fuse box as being the issue. Keep me informed.