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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
After owning my MK3 Jetta VR6, I started to pay attention to repairs the needed to be done before I can buy more upgrades for my car... I really wanted to buy a GIAC performance ECU chip and pacesetter headers but I got side tracked for the needed important repairs, bummer. Since I am a US army Verteran, I can get discounts from various part stores... even at the VW dealership parts department for OEM replacement parts.

NOTE: Theres 2 different rack n pinions (1) ZF = honey comb type or (2) TRW = smooth type for these mk3 jetta/golf so the part #'s im gonna provide is for the ZF rack n pinion.

During my past inspection of my car, I noted that the front passenger side wheel woobles a little bit during acceleration after it hits 65MPH, and my diagnose was the inner tie rod needed replacing after my inspection of my car. I went to the local VW dealership and purchased the passenger side tie rod, the dealership selles em as a kit (outer and inner) as other parts store sells em individually and aftermarket replacement. The original price for the OEM tie rod kit (part # 1H0-422-804-B) was supposed to be $163 with a new rubber boot (part # 357-422-831-B) was $62, a total of $225. I got the tie rod kit for $112 and the boot for $45 which totals up to $157, I saved $68.


I then went to a famous local tire shop called Agundis tire here in South San Francisco. I got quoted for the installation of the inner and outer tie rods for $90 and alignment for $70, which originally a total for $160. Since I know a real good friend from past work history, I got the tie rods installed for $45 with alignment for $60 which totals up to $105, I saved $55.

Now, my front passenger tire/wheel is sturdy and no more woobles when i tried to move it. My drive on the freeway is now solid after a test drive:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I also decided to try to eliminate my check engine light that I got recently :mad:. When I diagnosed the check engine like with my tester machine, It gave me P0440 and P0411, which are the secondary air pump for p0440 and small evap leak for P0411. I then called the mechanic tech at a local VW dealership, they told me it could be the N80/Purge valve (part # 0-280-142-308 ) for my VR6 12V, so I purchased it. The N80/Purge valve was originally priced for $172 but I got it for $118 with my Military Discount.


The N80/Purge valve is located between under the bottom of the Air Intake box used to sit and AFM (air flow meter). Since I took my stock air box out and put in an aftermarket Short Ram Intake previously, it was very easy to access the purge valve on my MK3 Jetta VR6 so it took only 10 minutes to R&R. Pics below is where the N80/Purge valve is located. I hope this take care of the check engine light issue I have :confused:






Now I gotta wait to save more funding to buy headers and a Giac performance chip after all the spendings today
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I just bought a German license plate that says "DAS AUTO" for the front and it comes with a front license plate case holder for only $35 total from EBAY Germany. Since its coming from Europe, its gonna take a while to arrive. This plate will definitely give the viewers that my car is a German car especially the VW slogan "DAS AUTO" meaning "The Car"... I just need the back license plate tub that I am working on getting at the moment to match the back to the front.
 

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After replacing that purge valve, your check engine light has stayed off? I got those codes 2 months ago, didn't bother fixing it since it's just to do with emissions. But I thought perhaps the poor condition of my PCV valve and grommet might have contributed to this. I haven't tried replacing that purge valve, and I don't know if I will if it's gonna run me 190$. By the way, lovin' the Euro plate. Don't forget to put up a pic when you get it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
0S1R1S,

My check engine light went back on but my scanner gave me only one code this time, which is the P0440 only (secondary air pump). The P0411 went away after installing the N80/Purge Valve which was causing the small evap leak. I am not gonna buy the secondary air pump in the future which would cost me roughly $850 but with my discount for $636. I have discovered a Performance ECU chip that disables the secondary air pump and disables to secondary O2 sensor, yet will also give my mk3 Jetta VR6 HP & torque performance at the same time. This ECU chip that I plan to purchase will only cost about $220 to my door, I will disclose what brand ECU performance chip once I have it.
 

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I love the step by step you are doing and also the fact you are doing what you want with the car and not what everybody tells you. Can't wait to start one of these threads my self!
 

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I love the step by step you are doing and also the fact you are doing what you want with the car and not what everybody tells you. Can't wait to start one of these threads my self!
Agreed, 1 or 2 things i wouldn't have done but it's your car and overall, i'm keeping a close eye for good tips to my car. Keep the updates coming!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
thanks for the kudos guys for giving me credits on what I do to my own car, fixing cars should only please the owner of the car before others regardless of others think. I build my thread and provide information as I go along with my steps because there's usually and barely no info in the net, so I input as much as infos I can give for others to read and take note of.

I have ordered some parts for my Mk3 jetta vr6 and it should be on the way soon. I will update when I have them ready to be installed ^_^
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I have received my Race File Performance chip for my 1998 mk3 Jetta VR6 12v motor that I have purchased from www.c2motorsports.com for $220 to my door. Heres a direct link from c2 http://www.c2motorsports.com/index....tegory_id=116&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=58 or it can be purchased from http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?target=products&product_id=4194 for the same price. I recommend the C2 performance chip especially to all California owners who drive a Mk3 or mk4 jetta/golf because it does not affect smog check when it comes to that.
The performance chip called Lays barbecue chip can be purchased at your local corner grocery store for $1, this is a must have to complete the installation of the ECU performance chip.




C2 performance chip offers 2 different types of ECU chip, the versions are RACE FILE and Street file. I have the race file version... The reason why I decided to purchase a Race File C2 performance chip for my mk3 vr6 12v is because of the benefits my car can get from the programs that the C2 has to offer, unlike what other performance chip doesn't. below is the following why...
Improvements include:

  • -Better throttle response
  • -Better midrange power
  • -Improved overall drive ability
  • -Increased rev limiter to 7200rpm
  • -Deleted speed governor
  • -Secured off-idle control
  • -Hi-Flow CAT compatible
Not only is this a performance file, but it also deletes the secondary air injection pump and the rear oxygen sensor while still setting readiness. This gives you the option of running a test pipe (catalytic converter delete) without having to worry about a check engine light. This file is tuned on 93 octane, however the ECU will pull enough timing if you had to run 91 or even 89. The chip will also works very well with a pair of performance cams. There is also an option for higher compression (HC) for those running a MK4 head gasket.

Having this chip that deletes the secondary air injection pump saves me huge amount of money from actually buying the secondary air injection pump from the VW dealership, which cost roughly $850 although I can get it for $636.



Here are some pictures I took to provide a guide for anyone that is planning to chip their mk3 Jetta/golf on how to remove and install ECU / ECM performance chip.

First, prepare the following required tools at the pictures below to perform the proper removal/installation.

Tools 1


  • -Phillips screw drivers (long & short)
  • -Flat head screw drivers (long & short)
  • -90 degree Plier tip
  • -Open wrench 10mm
  • -10mm open socket
  • -1/4 socket wrench
Tools 2


  • -Torx bit (T-15)
  • -Miniture flat head screw driver (eye glass repair type)
Tool 3


  • -Vacuume cleaner w/ suction

Step 1
Open up the hood and disconnect the battery (positive and negative), and then locate the passenger side cowl plastic covering. Then remove the cowl rubber strip out of the way. now, unscrew the plastic screws with a Phillips screw driver. when the plastic screw are halfway up, carefully unscrew them off while trying to pry them out with the 90 degree plier.


Step 2
When the passenger side cowl cover are removed, the vacuum cleaner are now required as you can see whats hiding under that cowl plastic cover on my mk3 jetta, I can build a bird nest with those stuff hiding there ;D LMAO! Clean all of those debris and dirts as this is a must to avoid ecu malfunction due to them, especially for early mk3's and mk2's.


Step 3
Unscrew the nut and the bolt with a 10mm socket or wrench to loosen up the ecu/ecm bracket from its place, there will be a white clip at the back that can be pulled up from its place that's also securing the bracket.


Here's a picture of the ECU/ECM number that most performance chip manufacture needs to assure the compatibility of the product. mk3 jetta/golf OBD2 has the following number
***-***-259. mk3 OBD1 has a different ECU/ECM #.


Step 4
Once the whole ECU/ECM is halfway out with the harness, the harness must be disconnected from the ECU/ECM box by carefully prying out the clip that secures the connection with a flat head screw driver.




Step 5
Grab a size 15 (t-15) torx bit to unscrew the torx bolts on all 4 sides to remove the top cover of the ECU/ECM box.


Step 6
Remove the ECU/ECM bracket from the box, then disconnect the ECU/ECM top cover from the box by using a flat head screw driver and lightly tap the top off. Once the top is off, place the circuit board on a flat clean surface away from everything.




Step 7
NOTE: This only applies to mk3 jetta/golf OBD2, OBD1 mk3 jetta/golf requires the chip to be soldered in unlike the obd2. Take the ecu box and the chip to a TV repair shop, computer repair shop, or any shop that deals with soldering CPU to a circuit board.
Grab the miniture flat head screw driver (sunglass repair driver) and carefully pry off the OEM ECU/ECM CPU from its retainer box by alternating from one end to other end. pay close attention to where to end of the CPU where the notch is located, the performance chip has to be installed the same way how the OEM CPU was where the notch was located.


In this picture, the OEM ECU/ECM PCU is on the left and the C2 performance chip is on the right.


Step 8
Install The performance chip by carefully pressing in the CPU in the retainer, pay close attention to the CPU wires by making sure that the wires aligned to the wires on the retainer.


Step 9
Reverse the steps from Step 6 to install everything back to its place. once everything is on to its place, connect the battery wires to the battery, turn on the ignition without starting the car so that the ECU/ECM recalibrates it self for good 5 mins. while waiting for the recalibration of the ECU/ECM, enjoy an edible performance chip for the hard work like I am in this picture.


After installing the performance chip into my mk3 jetta vr6. I went for a test drive around my block and I was really amazed on the gained performance from the C2 performance chip. The brand spanking new tires seems like they want to burn out on me on 1st and 2nd gear when the gas pedal is to the floor. It feels like there's better throttle response each time i step on the gas, my mk3 jetta vr6 is lot more aggressive. I still got to purchase a good headers and exhaust system to see the full potential of the C2 performance chip. Overall, I am very pleased with my purchase, spending $220 is well worth the gains.

The following websites is where I got my informations regarding ECU/ECM removal and installation of performance chip, thank you for the information to each respective owners of each site.
http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/chipping-a-vw-jetta-ecu
http://www.tdtuning.com/wp/?page_id=46

Note: for mk3 jetta/golf owners who has a 4 cylinder 2.0 or 1.8 engine, here's a link to where you can purchase performance chip
http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?target=categories&category_id=1517
 

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Good info on the chip, Dru! I think the P.O. of my Mk3 chipped mine out, and I kinda wanted to see if he did. So the ECU removal/installation instructions should go a long way for me. Keep the mods coming. Can't wait to see what's next.

Oh, as a side note, I see you're in 3rd ID, huh? I used to be in 3rd ID also - Rock of the Marne, bro!
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Good info on the chip, Dru! I think the P.O. of my Mk3 chipped mine out, and I kinda wanted to see if he did. So the ECU removal/installation instructions should go a long way for me. Keep the mods coming. Can't wait to see what's next.

Oh, as a side note, I see you're in 3rd ID, huh? I used to be in 3rd ID also - Rock of the Marne, bro!
It should be easy since I made a real clear instructions on my thread for your investigation of your ECU/ECM.

Yeah I was in the 3rd ID in Georgia, was in the motor pool as a 63Bravo working on humviees and the hummits that has the V8 turbo and supercharged motor.
 

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I did some training in Benning when I was a 19Kilo. When I got out, I had changed MOS's to 31Delta in Germany
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
why do you want headers? they will give you little to no gain and are just a waste of money.
That's not necessarily true if you combine it with a exhaust system but that's only true if aftermarket headers are alone with the stock exhaust system.

Engines work off from combustion, which is air and fuel that gets burned off for power. The combusted air and gas are exhausted throughout the exhaust system. The reason why we put intakes are because we want more air ratio that can be crammed into the engine to produce power, and used air needs to escape. If a car has a restricted exhaust system, then the combusted air and gas are pretty much restricted from flowing when using a stock exhaust system. If we upgrade the headers alone and don't have aftermarket exhaust, the header will help the combusted air a little bit up to the end of the headers, then the combusted air and gas will just run to a stock small exhaust system (cat to exhaust tip). The stock exhaust system will not be able to handle the extra air which could actually lose horsepower from that, that's why headers must be accommodated with after market exhaust system so that the combusted air and gas can pass through without any restriction, but it can't be too large as cars needs back pressure as well.


I did some training in Benning when I was a 19Kilo. When I got out, I had changed MOS's to 31Delta in Germany
Sweet, looks like you were in the service for quite some time. I wanted to go to Germany or Japan which it wasn't offered to me at all, I wanted to see where the cool cars are.
 

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I understand how an opened up exhaust system will help the engine, but the factory header is pretty much perfect when it comes to exhaust flow. Ever been over to VWVortex.com? They will explain much better how a header on a mkIII will do nothing except lose low end torque
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I understand how an opened up exhaust system will help the engine, but the factory header is pretty much perfect when it comes to exhaust flow. Ever been over to VWVortex.com? They will explain much better how a header on a mkIII will do nothing except lose low end torque
Yeah I know that website, Im feelin more of a home here with you guys. I will keep that in mind then if that's really true so I will make headers my last priority then :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Finally, my personalized front Euro plate came in that I have purchased from Germany Ebay for $35 shipped to my door. Here's a link to the seller in Ebay that sells all sort of German license plate http://motors.shop.ebay.com/buy-german/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg= .The one I purchased comes with a front license plate case holder too ^_^. I have chosen the Volkswagen slogan "DAS AUTO" for my mk3 Jetta, meaning "The Car" in English translation.




In this picture, I have made holes on my bumper to mount the Euro frame. I just made 4 holes on the bumper not exceeding the US plate holder in case when I need to place the US plate back and the new holes will not show.


Here's a picture of my Euro plate installed to my mk3 Jetta. finally my car looks officially German with the German license plate on :D. The installation took only 20 mins to do with the power driller tool. I have used my 4 stock bolts to secure the Euro plate.
 

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Nice Work..ECU upgrades are so expensive here, start at +-$400 in SA. Maybe later this year, ask you to ship me one so i can follow this DIY. We dont even have barbecue Lays AAAAAAArrrggghh!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Nice Work..ECU upgrades are so expensive here, start at +-$400 in SA. Maybe later this year, ask you to ship me one so i can follow this DIY. We dont even have barbecue Lays AAAAAAArrrggghh!! :)
LOL no Barbecue Lays Chips? man you dont know what your missin out lol. yeah I can get the Performance chip for you but your gonna have to match the RAND currency to US dollars. i think the current exchange rate right now is 1 USD = 7.215 ZAR. I can do favor for favor, check your PM i have a message for you.
 
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