its interesting that cylinder 2 and 6 are misfiring, there both not connected to the same coilpack, first off are you running a resistor with the msd setup? second is your spark plug wires completely pushed down?
Misfire problems
Hey guys, been having some troubles with my car and was wondering if anybody would care to weigh in on the problem. I have 99.5 Jetta VR6 AFP. I have the neuspeed catback, did the MSD ignition mod, thermostat housing, thermostat, crack pipe, replaced all the steel pipes in the coolant system (some rusted out), put in a "performance" radiator, water pump, after run pump, some hoses, couplings, and spark plugs (Just to give you an idea of what it looks like under there).
Anyway, after sorting out my coolant issues with my car (the temp gauge would shoot up after which I would promptly shut it down) I was gleefully driving my car around for a few days before it started misfiring. Prior to this I had no problems whatsoever, but it had been sitting for a month or two before I was able to finish with the repairs. After scanning the system it said that I had a misfire on cylinder 2 and 6. I don't remember the exact codes I can get them tomorrow but it was saying that there was a short in the circuit.
I checked the fuses, hooked a test light up to each line to make sure they're firing, did a compression test to see if I damaged anything from my coolant episode, replaced the fuel injector on the 6th cylinder (it wasn't firing. Actually I replaced a few because, well they're flimsy), and currently it was suggested that I check the fuel pump relay although I'm not sure that would be the cause but it passed regardless. Also, heard that low voltage would cause it to misfire but I charged it up and didn't change anything.
While I have the bottom of the dash uncovered I been poking around a bit because, and I don't know if it is true, but from my understanding the ABS light and traction control light will come on when there is a problem with the ABS system but only the ABS light will come on if there is a problem with the wiring somewhere under the dash or else where???? Can anyone shed some light on this for me. I'm pretty sure the guy before me had something done internally, I'm thinking a heater core, because there's stripped screws, the radio was kind of busted like someone tried to pry it off, and the drain for the HVAC was closed and water would run into the car when you used the AC.
The guy before me really didn't take care of the car that good but besides how awful it might sound the car is pretty nice and the interior is immaculate. Bought it when I was 16 and if nothing else it taught me a lot over the past few years.
So I'm trying to come up with the next step. Anybody that would have any input would be great!
Anyway, after sorting out my coolant issues with my car (the temp gauge would shoot up after which I would promptly shut it down) I was gleefully driving my car around for a few days before it started misfiring. Prior to this I had no problems whatsoever, but it had been sitting for a month or two before I was able to finish with the repairs. After scanning the system it said that I had a misfire on cylinder 2 and 6. I don't remember the exact codes I can get them tomorrow but it was saying that there was a short in the circuit.
I checked the fuses, hooked a test light up to each line to make sure they're firing, did a compression test to see if I damaged anything from my coolant episode, replaced the fuel injector on the 6th cylinder (it wasn't firing. Actually I replaced a few because, well they're flimsy), and currently it was suggested that I check the fuel pump relay although I'm not sure that would be the cause but it passed regardless. Also, heard that low voltage would cause it to misfire but I charged it up and didn't change anything.
While I have the bottom of the dash uncovered I been poking around a bit because, and I don't know if it is true, but from my understanding the ABS light and traction control light will come on when there is a problem with the ABS system but only the ABS light will come on if there is a problem with the wiring somewhere under the dash or else where???? Can anyone shed some light on this for me. I'm pretty sure the guy before me had something done internally, I'm thinking a heater core, because there's stripped screws, the radio was kind of busted like someone tried to pry it off, and the drain for the HVAC was closed and water would run into the car when you used the AC.
The guy before me really didn't take care of the car that good but besides how awful it might sound the car is pretty nice and the interior is immaculate. Bought it when I was 16 and if nothing else it taught me a lot over the past few years.
So I'm trying to come up with the next step. Anybody that would have any input would be great!
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Thanks for the response! I'm not running a resistor. I heard that it wasn't necessary so I didn't bother; I haven't had any problems from them either since I put them in. I'm pretty sure the wires are completely pushed down, but it would be great if that's where my problem is. I'll have to check it out. I thought it was weird too that 2 and 6 are misfiring. Aren't 2/5, 3/4, and 1/6 grouped together?its interesting that cylinder 2 and 6 are misfiring, there both not connected to the same coilpack, first off are you running a resistor with the msd setup? second is your spark plug wires completely pushed down?
Yes the resistor is not necessary and actually seemed to be the cause of blowing coils, the grouping is correct I really can not think of what I could be but pull the wires and hook up a multi meter to see if your getting a signalThanks for the response! I'm not running a resistor. I heard that it wasn't necessary so I didn't bother; I haven't had any problems from them either since I put them in. I'm pretty sure the wires are completely pushed down, but it would be great if that's where my problem is. I'll have to check it out. I thought it was weird too that 2 and 6 are misfiring. Aren't 2/5, 3/4, and 1/6 grouped together?
Was just messing around on it for a little before I had to go in to work. Decided to check the codes again and this time it said only cylinder 2 was misfiring. Weird.Yes the resistor is not necessary and actually seemed to be the cause of blowing coils, the grouping is correct I really can not think of what I could be but pull the wires and hook up a multi meter to see if your getting a signal
17646 - Fuel injector for cylinder 2 (N31) open circuit p1238 - 35-00
16684 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected p0300 35-00
16686 - cylinder 2 misfire detected p0302 35-00
However, it gets stranger. Thought to clear out the codes and see if it would act up after that, but now it won't start at all. Charged up the battery to see if it was that but was not the case. Now I'm getting...
18011- Internal Control module: failed self-test p1603 35-10 -- Intermittent
Man you have me puzzled nowWas just messing around on it for a little before I had to go in to work. Decided to check the codes again and this time it said only cylinder 2 was misfiring. Weird.
17646 - Fuel injector for cylinder 2 (N31) open circuit p1238 - 35-00
16684 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected p0300 35-00
16686 - cylinder 2 misfire detected p0302 35-00
However, it gets stranger. Thought to clear out the codes and see if it would act up after that, but now it won't start at all. Charged up the battery to see if it was that but was not the case. Now I'm getting...
18011- Internal Control module: failed self-test p1603 35-10 -- Intermittent
Damn, really seems as though you've covered all the usual suspects. I too am having misfire issues that i'm trying to deal with. JB welded the coil pack the other day, Just replaced all the spark plugs today and that didn't solve anything.
Did it start regularly (with the misfire) after you charged the battery??
Did it start regularly (with the misfire) after you charged the battery??
Prior to clearing out the codes the car would start without any problems except that it ran with a misfire. Now when I go to start it I just hear the battery drain and then nothing. It's not as though the battery is dead either. After work I disconnected the battery and touched the leads together hoping to reset everything in the car but when I hooked it all back together there was no change. The terminals and everything are clean there isn't any grime on it. I'm probably going to check the fuse on the ECM maybe I blew it out when I had it hooked up to the computer or something idk.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/coolant-migration-on-vw-from-defective-coolant-reservoir/ Found this. I'm going to look in to it.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/coolant-migration-on-vw-from-defective-coolant-reservoir/ Found this. I'm going to look in to it.
I would bench test the starter
I got it started. I disconnected the positive lead before I went to work hopping that it would reset the Ecu by the time I got back. Eight hours later I hook it back up and throw a charge on it and it runs now but still have the misfire on two. Checked the fuses again and they were fine. Think I'm going to take it apart again and check out the injector on it. Again. Hopefully I just overlooked something small.I would bench test the starter
are the plugs correctly gapped at .028? also hows the condition of the plug wires? maybe try switching #2 wire w #5 and see if the misfire changes to #5 cylinder, if so the wire is bad
I had tried swapping the wires but cylinder two still was misfiring. The plugs are brand new and I checked to see if volts are running through them. What do you mean by the gap but though?are the plugs correctly gapped at .028? also hows the condition of the plug wires? maybe try switching #2 wire w #5 and see if the misfire changes to #5 cylinder, if so the wire is bad
Spark plugs are gapped from the tip to the metal part that sticks out on top, check that gap and see if it's .028
this. any spark plug gapping tool can be purchased from an auto parts store for like $2. the gap is the measured distance between the metal prong and the metal tip on the ceramic base. if the gap is off a little it'll still run alright but not at its peak and if the gap is way off(anything above a .010 variance) it'll run rough an probly show up as a misfire on that cylinder. since you are unaware of the gaps then my first thought leans towards an incorrectly gapped plug on cyl 2. they say plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, never trust that. also what brand/style plugs are you using, oem?Spark plugs are gapped from the tip to the metal part that sticks out on top, check that gap and see if it's .028
Yes what brand are you runing?
Also with the msd setup I have mine gapped at .03 and heard of people going up to .04 but I would deffinetly start with .028
Also with the msd setup I have mine gapped at .03 and heard of people going up to .04 but I would deffinetly start with .028
I'll have to check it when I get off of work. If it was running fine and then just starts misfiring one day idk if it would be a gap issue but il definitely look into it. Rather it be that than anything else. I think y plugs might be from gruven I don't remember I'll have to look for a receipt.
FYI Ngk iridiums are recommended for vr's
actually the NGK BKR5EKU(nickel plated)are the oem recommended plug, and it works the best hands downFYI Ngk iridiums are recommended for vr's
Yes they are the oem but I've read most recomend the iridiums with the msdactually the NGK BKR5EKU(nickel plated)are the oem recommended plug, and it works the best hands down
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