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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) guide on how to install Performance Chip for MK3 Jetta/Golf OBD2 that I made for you. For more DIY information here http://jettajunkie.com/vw-jetta/sho...s-MK3-Black-Vento-Jetta-aka-DARK-KNIGHT/page3

I have received my Race File Performance chip for my 1998 mk3 Jetta VR6 12v motor that I have purchased from www.c2motorsports.com for $220 to my door. Heres a direct link from c2 http://www.c2motorsports.com/index....tegory_id=116&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=58 or it can be purchased from http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?target=products&product_id=4194 for the same price. I recommend the C2 performance chip especially to all California owners who drive a Mk3 or mk4 jetta/golf because it does not affect smog check when it comes to that.
The performance chip called Lays barbecue chip can be purchased at your local corner grocery store for $1, this is a must have to complete the installation of the ECU performance chip.




C2 performance chip offers 2 different types of ECU chip, the versions are RACE FILE and Street file. I have the race file version... The reason why I decided to purchase a Race File C2 performance chip for my mk3 vr6 12v is because of the benefits my car can get from the programs that the C2 has to offer, unlike what other performance chip doesn't. below is the following why...
Improvements include:


  • -Better throttle response
  • -Better midrange power
  • -Improved overall drive ability
  • -Increased rev limiter to 7200rpm
  • -Deleted speed governor
  • -Secured off-idle control
  • -Hi-Flow CAT compatible

Not only is this a performance file, but it also deletes the secondary air injection pump and the rear oxygen sensor while still setting readiness. This gives you the option of running a test pipe (catalytic converter delete) without having to worry about a check engine light. This file is tuned on 93 octane, however the ECU will pull enough timing if you had to run 91 or even 89. The chip will also works very well with a pair of performance cams. There is also an option for higher compression (HC) for those running a MK4 head gasket.

Having this chip that deletes the secondary air injection pump saves me huge amount of money from actually buying the secondary air injection pump from the VW dealership, which cost roughly $850 although I can get it for $636.



Here are some pictures I took to provide a guide for anyone that is planning to chip their mk3 Jetta/golf on how to remove and install ECU / ECM performance chip.

First, prepare the following required tools at the pictures below to perform the proper removal/installation.

Tools 1



  • -Phillips screw drivers (long & short)
  • -Flat head screw drivers (long & short)
  • -90 degree Plier tip
  • -Open wrench 10mm
  • -10mm open socket
  • -1/4 socket wrench

Tools 2



  • -Torx bit (T-15)
  • -Miniture flat head screw driver (eye glass repair type)

Tool 3



  • -Vacuume cleaner w/ suction


Step 1
Open up the hood and disconnect the battery (positive and negative), and then locate the passenger side cowl plastic covering. Then remove the cowl rubber strip out of the way. now, unscrew the plastic screws with a Phillips screw driver. when the plastic screw are halfway up, carefully unscrew them off while trying to pry them out with the 90 degree plier.


Step 2
When the passenger side cowl cover are removed, the vacuum cleaner are now required as you can see whats hiding under that cowl plastic cover on my mk3 jetta, I can build a bird nest with those stuff hiding there ;D LMAO! Clean all of those debris and dirts as this is a must to avoid ecu malfunction due to them, especially for early mk3's and mk2's.


Step 3
Unscrew the nut and the bolt with a 10mm socket or wrench to loosen up the ecu/ecm bracket from its place, there will be a white clip at the back that can be pulled up from its place that's also securing the bracket.


Here's a picture of the ECU/ECM number that most performance chip manufacture needs to assure the compatibility of the product. mk3 jetta/golf OBD2 has the following number
***-***-259. mk3 OBD1 has a different ECU/ECM #.


Step 4
Once the whole ECU/ECM is halfway out with the harness, the harness must be disconnected from the ECU/ECM box by carefully prying out the clip that secures the connection with a flat head screw driver.




Step 5
Grab a size 15 (t-15) torx bit to unscrew the torx bolts on all 4 sides to remove the top cover of the ECU/ECM box.


Step 6
Remove the ECU/ECM bracket from the box, then disconnect the ECU/ECM top cover from the box by using a flat head screw driver and lightly tap the top off. Once the top is off, place the circuit board on a flat clean surface away from everything.




Step 7
NOTE: This only applies to mk3 jetta/golf OBD2, OBD1 mk3 jetta/golf requires the chip to be soldered in unlike the obd2. Take the ecu box and the chip to a TV repair shop, computer repair shop, or any shop that deals with soldering CPU to a circuit board.
Grab the miniture flat head screw driver (sunglass repair driver) and carefully pry off the OEM ECU/ECM CPU from its retainer box by alternating from one end to other end. pay close attention to where to end of the CPU where the notch is located, the performance chip has to be installed the same way how the OEM CPU was where the notch was located.


In this picture, the OEM ECU/ECM PCU is on the left and the C2 performance chip is on the right.


Step 8
Install The performance chip by carefully pressing in the CPU in the retainer, pay close attention to the CPU wires by making sure that the wires aligned to the wires on the retainer.


Step 9
Reverse the steps from Step 6 to install everything back to its place. once everything is on to its place, connect the battery wires to the battery, turn on the ignition without starting the car so that the ECU/ECM recalibrates it self for good 5 mins. while waiting for the recalibration of the ECU/ECM, enjoy an edible performance chip for the hard work like I am in this picture.
 

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Added to the list.

P.S. I hope you cleaned out all those leaves lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah those leaves are out thank god lol. its very critical for that area to be free of debris for mk3 obd1 and mk2 jetta/golf cause its known to cause ecu failures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah it feels beastly, but I want more power from a Natural Aspirated (NA) 12V VR6 motor.
 

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Yeah it feels beastly, but I want more power from a Natural Aspirated (NA) 12V VR6 motor.
you need to bore out the cylindres, bore out the ports for larger valves, port the head, burly ass cam probably a 268* or 270*, custom ITB's, and stright pipe. dont think you can get any more power after that. lol and after all this ur going to need a stand alone ecu too

listen to this vr6 with ITB's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6F8V0Ut2Uvg
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
you need to bore out the cylindres, bore out the ports for larger valves, port the head, burly ass cam probably a 268* or 270*, custom ITB's, and stright pipe. dont think you can get any more power after that. lol and after all this ur going to need a stand alone ecu too

listen to this vr6 with ITB's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6F8V0Ut2Uvg
hmmm that's all you can think of? lets see my style if I were to really mod a N/A my way.
Head mods: port and polished intake and exhaust head, large valves with 5 angle valve job, double springs, race profile cams, adjustable cam gears. arp head bolts, and mk4 12v vr6 head gasket.

Block mods: knife edge the crank, bull nose the front crank, arp crank bolts, billet aluminum main caps, Eagle H beam rods, Venolia oversize pistons 13:1 CR, balance and blue print the block.

ECU mods: Haltech ECU management system.

Fuel delivery mods: matched port ITB's with 650 CFM injectors.

Tranny mod: LSD
 

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125whp/125wtrq
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Head mods: port and polished intake and exhaust head, large valves with 5 angle valve job, double springs, race profile cams, adjustable cam gears. arp head bolts, and mk4 12v vr6 head gasket.

Block mods: knife edge the crank, bull nose the front crank, arp crank bolts, billet aluminum main caps, Eagle H beam rods, Venolia oversize pistons 13:1 CR, balance and blue print the block.

ECU mods: Haltech ECU management system.

Fuel delivery mods: matched port ITB's with 650 CFM injectors.

Tranny mod: LSD
lol forgot about the lower end of the block hahaha. you forgot about titanium retainers lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I forgot that one lol, you got a point on that ^_^
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah its fairly easy thing to do. I hope you got OBD2 mk3 because OBD1 is a bit challenge, will need to find someone to solder the chip into the mother board ECU. if you got questions about anything while you attempt to chip your mk3, let me know anytime fellow dubber.
 

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Great post laughed really hard,, damn lays performance chips.. Anyway 97 trek 2.0 5spd anyway of knowing if thats OBD2 or 1 off top of head? Im more inclined to do this now that you have lol so many people telling me no never chip bad bad lol and chance wreck Main board wile installing
 

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Great post laughed really hard,, damn lays performance chips.. Anyway 97 trek 2.0 5spd anyway of knowing if thats OBD2 or 1 off top of head? Im more inclined to do this now that you have lol so many people telling me no never chip bad bad lol and chance wreck Main board wile installing
'97 is obd2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
According to my knowledge, in the year 1996 is when OBD2 became standard on all vehicles.
 

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lol that looks so simple but quick question while i was here thought i would ask to see if you guys would know. okay in CT we have been having a fairley rough 2 weeks snow and cold wise(i have about 2ft or more sitting in my yard from a storm a week ago,so JDM_GUY i hope u like cali hahah) but ill start it in the morning the check engine light will flash on then go off and it will jump to about 2000rpm and stay ill hit the throttle to make it stop and it wont. then when i go to drive it if i get into second gear or above and hit the throttle fairely hard to pass someone on highway or something it bogs right out untill i lift the throttle then it will sit at 2grand again HELP its really Finggg annoying hhaa
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
lol that looks so simple but quick question while i was here thought i would ask to see if you guys would know. okay in CT we have been having a fairley rough 2 weeks snow and cold wise(i have about 2ft or more sitting in my yard from a storm a week ago,so JDM_GUY i hope u like cali hahah) but ill start it in the morning the check engine light will flash on then go off and it will jump to about 2000rpm and stay ill hit the throttle to make it stop and it wont. then when i go to drive it if i get into second gear or above and hit the throttle fairely hard to pass someone on highway or something it bogs right out untill i lift the throttle then it will sit at 2grand again HELP its really Finggg annoying hhaa
sorry to hear your weather condition where your at, i do love california weather but not the laws lol. try getting your car scanned to see the CEL. perhaps that way you can have a better idea what it could be.
 

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question. I have a 1996 mk3 2.0 4 cylinder jetta. and was wondering if that any of those chips would be able to go on mine even though its a 2.0 4 cylinder not a vr6. and if there is which one could be better?
 

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@thefluffy13 if you go to the links jdm_guy provided in the first post you can go through the steps on the websites and find the chips for your car. they make them for the 12v vr6, 8v 2.slow, and the 20v 1.8t. so yes they do, but you have to search the site for pricing
 

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So just to be clear, as i have never done anything like an ECU upgrade or been "tuned" or whatever, this is the equivalent of getting a MK4/MK5/MK6 "tuned" or "flashed" ? And is there MPG gains, or just power gains?
 
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