ODB-II, code PO170, Front Oxygen Sensor........help

4477 Views 6 Replies 6 Participants Last post by andres, Sep 18, 2012

Akafishbone

Discussion Starter · Sep 13, 2012

I am in a non-testing emissions state......... I have a code indication Oxygen sensor bank 1........ (PO170) Can I unplug the sensor, until I can afford to get if fixed. What would the process be and would there be any harm done to the car. I am tired of going to AutoZone to read/clear this same code........ Sensor is $120++++ and I have been quoted 1.4 hours from 3 different shops.

If unplugged wouldn't car "learn & compensate".... I understand this is an ODB-11 car vs, ODB-1 which would not learn and compensate

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WishingBig

· #2 · Sep 13, 2012

120 for both o2 sensors???? If its for one i wouldn't do it. Do you have an Advance auto nearby? Check their o2 sensors. And 1.4 hours to do oxygen sensors? Jack the front end up unplug and get them out with a wrench. I wouldn't pay anyone to do it its an easy do it yourself.

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andres

· #3 · Sep 13, 2012

Akafishbone said:
I am in a non-testing emissions state......... I have a code indication Oxygen sensor bank 1........ (PO170) Can I unplug the sensor, until I can afford to get if fixed. What would the process be and would there be any harm done to the car. I am tired of going to AutoZone to read/clear this same code........ Sensor is $120++++ and I have been quoted 1.4 hours from 3 different shops.

If unplugged wouldn't car "learn & compensate".... I understand this is an ODB-11 car vs, ODB-1 which would not learn and compensate

First and most important!!!!! DO NOT TOUCH THE SENSOR WITHOUT UNPLUGGING THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL.... If it shorts it will burn your ECU... for real been there done that... for the front oxygen sensor I got a Bosch (best ones) for 70$... and i switched it myself (actually both of them) its fairly easy... Lift the car, Unplug negative from battery get down there and theres a back box on the right side of the car (by passenger seat) open that up by unscrewing the little plastic caps. unplug the old sensor from there and then use some PB blaster on the oxygen sensor by the exhaust. take it out... put new one in and reverse all you did....

Dont trust those guys who go 1 hour of their time in a shop this would take surely 30 min TOPS!... do it yourself but please make sure to unplug the negative from the battery cuz if it shorts... you will be looking at buying a new ECU

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV_GLI--1.8T/Engine/Emissions/Oxygen_Sensor/ES892/

thats a priced one you know but its gets you an idea.

here's a DIY link from Vortex: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?990129-DIY-Replacing-oxygen-sensors

Remember to unplug the battery lol

sorry for being anal but i burned my ecu about a month ago....

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Vixen

· #4 · Sep 13, 2012

Lololol 1.4hrs to change an O2.

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redvirus80

· #5 · Sep 16, 2012

5mins tops...with a smoke break included

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jmac576

· #6 · Sep 16, 2012

Im with Andres i did the same exact thing. The porcelain portion of the rear 02 sensor melted and when the wires touched the ECU was done. $500 later it was back up and running. My car was doing the same thing pulling the PO170 code, but not because the 02 sensors aren't working. I would get your Catalytic converter checked out first before spending a couple hundred bucks on something you may not even need.

The rear sensor is placed behind the Cat. therefore it is supposed to read less fuel than the front one and if your Cat. is blown out then they will both be reading the same amount of fuel going out the exhaust.

And 1.5 hours is BS. i would tell them to shove it.

hope that helps

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andres

· #7 · Sep 18, 2012

jmac576 said:
Im with Andres i did the same exact thing. The porcelain portion of the rear 02 sensor melted and when the wires touched the ECU was done. $500 later it was back up and running. My car was doing the same thing pulling the PO170 code, but not because the 02 sensors aren't working. I would get your Catalytic converter checked out first before spending a couple hundred bucks on something you may not even need.

The rear sensor is placed behind the Cat. therefore it is supposed to read less fuel than the front one and if your Cat. is blown out then they will both be reading the same amount of fuel going out the exhaust.

And 1.5 hours is BS. i would tell them to shove it.

hope that helps

x100000 I switched my cat since it failed but got a full turbo back exhaust, then my o2 shorted and well... thats about it. if you can just spend the money on a downpipe + race cat (with o2 spacer from 42dd) or test pipe. it shouldn't be that expensive and its worth less than buying a new cat + installing it.

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