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Fukenmüven
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don’t think this is a DIY, but more of a guide of a way to run the wires for subs, as there is more than one way to do it. I am sorry for how big the pictures are.
Tools needed:
Flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar
Small/medium Philips head screwdriver
Straightened wire clothes hanger with hook removed and small loop bent into one end
Amp wires
Patience
STEP: 1 TRIM REMOVAL
Tools needed for step: 1 philips screwdriver, and pry bar or flat blade screwdriver.
We will start in the back on the driver side. The first thing to do is lift up the back seat bottom like so.

Then the little cap looking thing needs to be unscrewed. Once unscrewed, lift up on the plastic trim piece, it is held in by snap things (you won’t break them). The seat back will need to be moved during this step in order to get the trim piece movable, seen in the next picture.

The next piece of trim to be removed is the piece that covers the driver seatbelt mechanism. You will need either the screw driver or the pry bar for this. Start at the top corner and pry it out. It will snap back if you are not careful, it may take some working to get it off. It will lift up and off once the snap pieces are popped out.

Now for the bottom trim piece. There are two Philips screws located below the seatbelt mechanism, one on each side pointed to in the next picture. Once these screws are removed the bottom trim piece can be popped up and removed just like the other pieces.

The front of the bottom trim piece is connected to the kick panel trim, and it just pops apart as shown below.

Then you will need to pop loose the kick panel, the hood release mechanism gets in the way so unless you know how to remove it, you won’t be able to take the entire piece out. Then next thing to remove is the panel on the side of the dash that covers the fuse panel, not just the cover the entire panel. You will need the screwdriver or pry bar again for this. The cover is held on by more of those snap things so all you have to do is take the screwdriver and pop it off. I would start where the arrow is pointing.

Once the cover is removed the trim removal it complete.
STEP: 2 WIRE RUNNING
Tools needed for Step: 2 wire hanger and amp wires.
Since the positive wire and the remote wire for the amp basically follow the same path, we will cover both of them at the same time.
Starting from the trunk, you will take the hanger and run the hanger under the fabric cover and the seat back. The hanger will make this easier because of the lack of space.


Then you will run the wire to the corner where it cap looking thing was removed. You will then run the wires up the side of the car under either the carpet or where the trim pieces go, in order to keep the wires hidden. When you get up to the kick panel you will need the hanger again. This is where the positive and the remote wire separate. The remote wire will run up the kick panel and into the dash, so that it can tap into the fuse panel, as shown below.

Into the fuse panel.


The positive wire will continue through the kick panel an then up under the dash to the hole in the fire wall. Once again you will need the hanger to run the wire through the hole. It should look something like this.

Once it is through the firewall it is on to the battery.




That is the wiring for the positive and the remote wires.
The ground wire is very simple to run just find a bolt that connects to the frame or body, there are several in and around the trunk.
The RCA wires in my car don’t come out of the trunk; they are attached to the wires that that come out of the monsoon amp via this box thing of which I did not install.

Once you have been ran the wires Step: 2 is done.
STEP: 3 PUTTING THE CAR BACK TOGETHER
When putting your car back together just follow the trim removal steps backwards.
 

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lowness and dopeness
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4,818 Posts
ummm..if you have an aftermarket deck, you want to run the remote wire under the dash, into the center dash behind the deck and connect it to the blue wire on the harness kit. *also*, when running the power/positive wire, and rca's..they should run on seperate sides of the car, because the power can interfere with the rca's.


good diy man
 

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Fukenmüven
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1,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks, and yeah if you have an after market headunit you can run it to the headunit itself, the way mine is ran the amp turns on when the key is in the on position, because i have the factory headunit still
 

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lowness and dopeness
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4,818 Posts
thanks, and yeah if you have an after market headunit you can run it to the headunit itself, the way mine is ran the amp turns on when the key is in the on position
yeah that is what the remote wire is for lol..my remote is hooked into the remote of the car (blue wire in harness kit) and the amp turns on when i turn the car on. But you have a stock deck i take it..right?
 

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How do you get the output for the amp? somehow off the monsoon amp right? Can you do a small diy with pics on how to hook that up ? That would be awsome.
 

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Fukenmüven
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1,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How do you get the output for the amp? somehow off the monsoon amp right? Can you do a small diy with pics on how to hook that up ? That would be awsome.
are you talking about the out put for the RCA wires? if so the adapter that i am using runs off of wires leading to the rear door speakers. that way with the factory head unit and possibly after market head units, is able to give a small adjustment to the bass if your amp does not have a remote bass controller.
as for another DIY or some pictures or something, i can do that but it won't happen for a few days because of the weather. i may be able to do it this weekend weather permitting.
 

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Ya, i meant just the RCA outputs. I would never try to push anything other than my doors with the monsoon amp lol. I would like to get some bass in my trunk but im kinda into the stock head unit, with the dimmer and such, plus it would be one less wire to run. So whenever you get around to it, it would be really great, no hurry or anything. Not for me anyway.

By the way what do you think about a system in a jetta? 10"s are proboly pleanty right? Ported or sealed? I was thinking tens, I just think 12s are kinda over kill in a car. I just want some good bass you can feel , maybe hear a little bit outside, but i dont need the kinda bass that gives you heart palpitations and vibrates your liceince plate off. I was thinkin Rockford any other recomendations?
 

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Fukenmüven
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1,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
10s will be fine i have 12s but they are being pushed by a small amp :(. Rockfordfosgate is a good brand alpine, kicker, JL, are all good quality there are a bunch of good ones out there
 

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lowness and dopeness
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i have 2 12" alpines with a 1200 watt amp lol,but i have them set right. before, when they were in my jeep, they made my heart skip..but now i tuned them down alot so my trunk doesnt fall off haha
 

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The jetta thats Betta
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haha id like to see a diy for hiding 3 runs of 0 gauge cable :p my 18 POUNDSSSSS lol
 

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ok i did all this when i hooked my amp and sub up but im having problems with getting too little power from my sub even when the bass is turned up on the headunit and ive cranked it up. ive messed with the gains on both the amp and the lineout converter and they are all the way up. how to i get more bass without blasting my speakers out?
 

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Double check the polarity (the + and -) of your wiring. You could have them wired opposite accidentally so that they are out of phase of each other, thus canceling each other out. That happened to me when I switched from an extremely cheap amp in one car running two 12 inch subs to my Denon amp installed in the new car. I thought the Denon was junk because I couldn't hear anything until someone told me to check the polarity. Indeed, I had the polarity switched on one of the subs and after swapping it around, the bass nearly blew me out of the car, LOL.
 
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