Volkswagen Jetta Junkies banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a 97 Jetta Sedan 2.0L I4 EFI about a month ago. It's been sitting for a year-hardly ever driven, so I knew it would have problems. After putting in about $500 to bring it up to maintenance, The transmission has since been slipping progressively worse. Went to get the fluids flushed, filter replaced, and transmission serviced, and it's running a little better in low gears (was slipping in low gears to make it jerk real hard), so now it just does it a little in the high gears...Mechanic told me it probably needs a valve body- $1400. If I pay that amount of money, will it just go out again? Having trouble finding answers online...Are Jettas notorious for transmission problems, or do y'all think it's just from sitting for a yr? Plus, it's going to need $500 or so more work done...and it's staring to show signs of electrical issues...How long do you think I have before this car breaks down on me?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,779 Posts
Im guessing this is an auto? Autos mkIII and under usually have a lot of problems, and for the price to fix, id find a used manual setup and swap it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Im guessing this is an auto? Autos mkIII and under usually have a lot of problems, and for the price to fix, id find a used manual setup and swap it.
Did the place you had the trans serviced talk you into a "Flush" if they did you are a victim of the evil trans flush. NEVER EVER DO IT. it knock loose a buch of crap and F's up your trans.
Smell your fluid does it smell burnt. If you don't what to smell for, open a new bottle of ATF then smell your Trans dipstick. You will be able to tell.
IF it smells burnt then you need a new trans and the only way you can save your trans short of big bucks is the way below.
If it doesn't smell burnt try transmedic. It really works, but your trans will fail eventually.
IF ATF smells burnt, it is probably your torque converter that is gone and the trans is cooking and grinding itself to death.
The reason this works is that the Amsoil and the Lubeguard raises the burn point of your trans fluid and it keeps working even thought the trans is shot.
OK. There are two things you can try. You can just have a mechanic do a drain and fill, but they will have to do it several times and waste alot of the amsoil
1st try a complete drain and fill it with AMSOIL Synthetic ATF(about $8 a quart if you shop around) and add lube guard red or black whichever is appropriate.
In order to completely drain the tranny without doing the drain, fill, drive, drain, fill drive, drain, fill drive technique, you need ( do this yourself) locate your trans drain plug. Jack the car up so the drain plug is at the lowest point. THis may mean driving your car in reverse onto ramps, so the rear of the car is up, BLOCK THE FRONT WHEELS, and then slightly jacking the passenger side of the front of your car up if the drain plug is on the far drivers side, if it is close to the engine jack the passenger side. if is smack dab in the middle just do the back.
Then open the plug and let as much drain out as will with car off. Then (I know everyone will call me crazy) with the emergency brake on, start the car and let run for a minute ( more will drain out), Hold the brake pedal down hard, and shift through ALL the gears while giving it a little gas in each gear (like 2500 rpm) let it sit in each gear about 20 seconds. Turn off car, measure how much you got out and add the same amount of AMSOIL synthetic ATF.

IF that doesn't work try transmedic.

Or you could just find someone to install a new/used trans for $500 or so.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top